Gasthof Art Hotel Hirschen, Schwarzenberg, Bregenzerwald in Austria

The Good Life Curator

The Hirschen ‘Young since 1755’, is a love pot of heritage, art, culture, food and style – a Wunderkammer of familiar nostalgia reframed for the nomads who seek roots and prefer to sleep with history

Intro

Peel back the baronial façade of cured timber, mandatory flowering blooms and Austrian frescoes and you’ll discover a family heirloom brushed by an incredibly rich canvas of history woven with the arts: a cultural marriage of rustic meets east-side gallery. 

Dating back to the 1700s, Gasthof Hirschen Schwarzenberg, affectionately referred to as The Hirschen, is a place of heritage that has been the resting spot of choice for passing royals; King Maximilian of Bavaria; August, the king of Saxony and the culturati of the day including poet Eduard Mörike. It is wonderfully scarred, marked with the tales of past and not one floor is level, the walls lean and beams arch under the weight of time: this place is gorgeously twisted by the centuries.

The family Fetz have been the owning custodians for the past 250 years and today Peter has the stewardship taking over from father and art curator, Franz. Peter is curious by default, he is well travelled, a patron of the culinary scene and he understands the importance of heritage.

He also instinctively knows what bare bones to keep the legend going. Growing up in the house, he knows every nook and cranny, and this informs his design mission, creating a relaxed alpine retreat that speaks of old whilst adding new notes of modern.

Expect to find timber in every direction – that’s a given in these parts, plus old frescoes, planked flooring, folksy furniture painted in the classic Bauernmalerei and antiques that sit alongside muted eggshell tones, crisp linens and of course, artworks – mainly from local artist Franz Metzler, to whom many of the rooms are dedicated and works by Margit Nosko, Paul Renner, Aldo Mondino and other Vorarlberg artists of the present.

One of Peter’s additions is the timber bathhouse in the garden. Designed by Nona Architects, a gallery space has been converted to an architecturally striking new spa house with treatment rooms and saunas. Framed by the verdant fronds of the garden, the outdoor swimming pool is long enough for lengths, heated by the excess warmth from a timber plant. Even better is an underground tunnel that leads directly to a secret drinking spot – aptly named the bathrobe bar.

Food is also firmly on the agenda and culinary pilgrims flock to the Hirschen. Peter is a self-confessed foodie who loves to chat about the famous cheese, wine, fermentation, the importance of knowing where your food comes from and that interpersonal relationship with the farming community. 

The Hirschen ‘Young since 1755’, is a love pot of heritage, art, culture, food, spa and style – a Wunderkammer of familiar nostalgia reframed for the nomads who seek roots and prefer to sleep with history. 

Rooms

Gasthof Art Hotel Hirschen, Schwarzenberg, Bregenzerwald in Austria, member of The Aficionados Gasthof Art Hotel Hirschen, Schwarzenberg, Bregenzerwald in Austria, member of The Aficionados

Artworks – the signature of the Hirschen – feature in all of the rooms, making each slightly distinctive. Like The Hirschen itself, the bedrooms, suites and 12 holiday apartments, called Hirschen Homes, come in all different shapes and sizes and are spread between the historic and new buildings - all within the architectural style of the setting. Supplying a range of stylish choice for the modern design traveller, there are 14 rooms in the inn, simultaneously elegant and timelessly traditional in a way that exudes a deep sense of calm and comfort. Treca mattresses, cotton bedding and roomy bathrooms replete with products from the queen of wellbeing, Susanne Kaufmann sit alongside heritage features such as parquet flooring and centuries-old frescoes on the ceiling. 

In the newly renovated timber Wälderhaus, there are 12 Hirschen Homes made up of suites and apartments which are spacious, contemporarily styled and convenient with kitchenettes, some coming with two-bedrooms. These timber cocoons are ideal for families or groups wanting to stay a little longer.

Food and the Hirschen are firmly married - the chef turns his creative talents towards recreating your alpine favourites with such delicacy you really can have your cake and eat it

Foodie

Gasthof Art Hotel Hirschen, Schwarzenberg, Bregenzerwald in Austria, member of The Aficionados Gasthof Art Hotel Hirschen, Schwarzenberg, Bregenzerwald in Austria, member of The Aficionados

Gasthof Hirschen Schwarzenberg is a hotel famed as a foodie bolthole - raved about, in fact, and recently awarded 89 Falstaff points and three Gault Millau Toque.

When a young maverick chef takes over the helms, it is fantastic how he dips into the heritage of this inn's 300-year-old history and reinvents the classics with creativity. Head Chef Jonathan Burger, known as ‘the gourmet hipster’, has delved into the past to source old-table dishes served here centuries ago, giving them healthier, lighter touches and serving them as truly beautiful creations. Burger operates his kitchen more like a laboratory where he and his team of ten fellow pioneers explore new cooking methods to modify ancestral fermentations.

Family Fetz has their own herb and vegetable gardens, smokehouse and even a working dairy farm up in the alps called Alpe Rothenbach, where happy pigs roam and butter is churned alongside the famous Bregenzerwald cheeses. Austrian grapes headline the wine list, with an impressive wine cellar and vinothèque. Dining options include an old-style cosy Stube decked in history, as well as a great outdoor garden terrace, perfect for sunning yourself during the warmer months.

Spa

Hotel Hirschen | Schwarzenberg, Austria | The Aficionados

Adding another string to the Hirschen’s bow and bringing it firmly into modern times is the new bathhouse in the garden. Designed by Nona Architects, the timber and stainless steelstructure is a gorgeous testament to wellness with its relaxation rooms, saunas, gym and light-filled yoga studio. 

Outside a swimming pool sits nestled among the greenery of e garden and its 15 x 4-metre size mean a few lengths are very much possible, if the moment takes you. Also to be noted is the secret passage which takes you directly from spa to bar. Without the need the change or be respectable, the clandestine drinky spot is called the Bathrobe Bar, for good reason.

Location

Natural hotspot, Bregenzerwald is home to the cute village of Schwarzenberg, and right at the heart stands the Gasthof Hirschen as the focal point opposite a wonderful medieval church with sweeping vistas on up to the mountains of the Vorarlberg region of Austria

Just a short drive down to the shores of Bodensee (Lake Constance) and the nearby city of historic Bregenz, Gasthof Hirschen is sandwiched between Zurich in the west and Innsbruck to the east.

I love the fact that the real tradition of the Hirschen has always been it's open-mindedness, and it's curiosity towards the things that happen outside the village

Owner

When the charismatic Peter Fetz took over the reins in 2018, he was under no illusion about how best to fill the shoes of his father, Franz Fetz, a sort of legend. Not only for owning one of the best hotels in Austria, nor for being part of the same owning family for the past 250 years, or for the foodie reputation that he has built up over the years. No – Franz Fetz is also known for his insatiable appetite for art – which adorns every wall of his hotel.

Next-generation Peter is an equally passionate guy, a natural host, a fellow foodie and a global nomad.  He was acutely aware of how best to secure the next 250 years of the Hirschen. 

“After growing up in this house, I had to go far away to clear my mind and see the Hirschen ‘empty’. Call it emotional Zero" explains Peter. “Over the years, I've been to many other hotels, and time made me change my perspective. I've learned that your brand is nothing more than the feeling you want your guests to have when they walk through your front gate.” There is a sense of 'fresh air' at the Hirschen, and Peter has given the heritage rooms a contemporary accent that frames the family art collections.

Peter Fetz - owner of Gasthof Art Hotel Hirschen, Schwarzenberg, Bregenzerwald in Austria, member of The Aficionados

He has also seriously upped the restaurant scene – proving a hit with both locals and those from further afield who come toexperience his culinary mash-up of traditional Austrian plates and urban fusions that caught his tastebuds while on his travels.

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