Villa Valter

A townhouse and seaside residence decorated in consummate style, Villa Valter is the old sea captain’s house in the off-radar Croatian town of Lovran in Istria, energised with a new vision of eclectic whimsy and design credentials.

Known to us dearly, owners Walter and Eveline Eselböck from the foodie success story and hotel Taubenkobel in Austria have branched out into coastal Croatia, bringing with them their worldly style, eye for design and vast experience in creating happy places to be. Hotel-guesthouse Villa Valter sits among other terracotta-topped traditional Istrian builds, facing the Adriatic, where the sea captain surely planned his maritime business based on the waves.

Authentic Venetian architecture meets the eye at first glance of townhouse Villa Valter with its sturdy stone exterior, shuttered windows and wrought iron balcony, set in a town influenced by the Romans which then came into its own as a shipbuilding hub in medieval days. Inside, welcome to an emporium of style and opulent confidence that sees its Venetian core ornamented with an eclectic mix of curios, antiques, designer icons and modern treasures. Design devotees will spot the Murano lighting, 80s Tom Dixon classic in cowhide and Eileen Gray's E 1027 table, while unusual pearls will attract the eye to the modern artwork, innovative textile forms and homespun chic vibes. 

With just a handful of curatorially styled bedrooms, Villa Valter also has plenty of communal spots to take it all in or indulge in a little conviviality. The salon, with its designer velvet sofas, gilt-edged mirrors, marble busts, and statement lighting, is one such space. The salon, with its bay windows and sea terraces, is one such space, as is the rooftop, a spot for sunny breakfast, yoga, sunset, or just sitting. 

A charming way to spend a holiday in this easy-to-love coastal enclave where the pebbly beaches are licked by the clear Adriatic, accessible through cobbled streets in just 80 steps from the villa. Enjoy eclectic escapism at this Croatian coastal bolthole of assured style and enduring Istrian-Italian heritage.

In the bedrooms, named Alloro, Oliva, Lavanda, Rosmarino and Mandarino, polished herringbone parquet flooring meets beds topped with woven covers and windows that look out onto mature palm trees or the Adriatic and her islands.

The eye is naturally drawn to the unusual textile 'hand' installations by Wiener Time, draped on the beds; other notes of whimsical charisma include the Murano style lampshades and vintage chandeliers, unique artwork and neat bathrooms decked in monochromatic black and white.

Breakfast on the sun-dappled rooftop is an excellent start to the day: locally baked bread, pastries, fruit, Istrian cheese and strong coffee form the backbone to the morning repast. As for the rest of the day, pick up a picnic for a lunch on the beach or speak to consummate foodies, your hosts Walter and Eveline about the best places for Istrian food in Lovran. Seafood and fish is likely to be high up on the menu alongside more rustic dishes such as ox stews, hearty soups and the Italian influence of homemade pasta, gnocchi and risotto. In season, expect black and white truffle to grace the table, dusted on top of fuzi pasta in delicious paper-thin slices or distilled into butters, oils and cheeses. You will find interesting wine here too, in viticulture traditions that go back to Roman times – today the crisp Malvasia white goes down very well on a sunny day.

Croatia’s north-west peninsula of Istria has long been known as the meeting point of central Europe and the Mediterranean. Full of ancient sites from the Roman amphitheatre at Pula, the medieval walled town of Motovun to the hilltop Baroque church of St. Euphemia in Rovinj, over the years the Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Austro-Hungarians have all inputted on Istria’s multi-faceted culture. However Venetian rule in the 13th-century was probably the most notable in its architecture and way-of-life, today spy beautiful Italo churches, loggias and fortifications plus of course in its cuisine - pasta, gnocchi and risottoare staples here.

This is all evident in Lovran, a quiet, unassuming town, made up of white-washed terracotta houses that stare out to sea. Life is firmly in the slow lane here, with the Adriatic just 80 steps away, many enjoy a daily walk along the picturesque Lungomare promenade, relaxing on its plentiful pebbly beaches as well as exploring the cobbled streets of the medieval-walled old town and historic core. Backed by lush flora and hilly fruit orchards and olive groves, Lovran is a foodie destination – time your visit in summer with the asparagus festival in April, cherryfestival in June or chestnut season in October.

We are well acquainted with the owners of this Croatian gem through our association with Taubenkobel, a foodie legend of a hotel in Austria. The owning family are the Eselböcks – made up of husband-and-wife team Walter (one of the most imaginative chefs in Austria) and charm-personified Eveline with their daughter Barbara and her culinary creative husband, Chef Alain Weissgerber. As well as Taubenkobel hotel and restaurant, the family have a raft of projects under their guise including an eclectic mix of gourmet restaurants, foodie popups and an organic winery Oggau which falls under Stephanie Tscheppe-Eselböck and her husband, Eduard Tscheppe, the son of a winemaking family.

Added to this is now Walter and Eveline’s new creative offshoot – the Croatian beauty known as Villa Valter.